Peru blog

More blog from Dorothy Zerbe:
 

April 16, 2010

 

My traveling companions, Ayse Timmerman and Linda Chapple, arrived at my house and we left Oshkosh around 2 p.m., saying good-bye to Riley cutie cat through the back door where he usually sits  looking after the one who is leaving, as though to say 'I'll be here when you get back.'   And he will be.  Right there in that same spot.

 

Got to Chicago during rush hour but on a Friday night, the northbound lanes were more backed up than ours were, so we pulled into our hotel parking lot 3 hours after leaving my driveway.   Ate dinner at an Italian restaurant within walking distance, enjoying  a waiter, though not our waiter, who sang along with the recorded overhead music of Frank Sinatra.  By smiling at him, I got his attention and got him to turn the music down.  Quilters were in town for a convention and they were filtering into the restaurant as we ate, and very quickly took over our table when we vacated it with our leftover pizza boxes. 

Looks like pizza for breakfast on Saturday!

 

Saturday, April 17, 2010

 

I was looking at a garbage can full of empty pretzel bags, and mounds of little Halloween sized M&Ms and Snickers bars, when suddenly my attention was pulled over to the TV set where a movie was blaring.  I quickly stuffed a few snacks into my pants pockets and suddenly I was still in my bed and remembered I was in the Courtyard by Marriott hotel near O'Hare.   I asked whoever might be listening, 'what movie is this?'  and someone answered 'See You in Miami'.   The hotel room door closed and I woke up, got out of bed and looked out the hotel window to the street 2 floors below.  Yep, we were in Chicago still, and Ayse was no longer in bed, but Linda still lay asleep, snoring.  [I put that part in because later she would say I was snoring, so just for the written record, let it be known.]   I ran over to the sink and nope, there were no empty pretzel bags and then of course, also no snacks in my non-existent pockets.  Must have been dreaming, but Ayse's plane was to leave at 9 a.m. and Linda and I were scheduled to leave at noon.    I hurried downstairs to see Ayse off at the shuttle stop, and sure as anything, there she was eating her pizza for breakfast.

 

A long and fairly uneventful flight ensued, which landed us in Miami, just like in the dream, and then another flight to Lima,  where we had a 3 hour layover until our flight to Arequipa.   We shared a 'tres leches' dessert and I spied a spa just a few feet away.  They were giving 30 minute foot rubs for $30 and their chairs looked wide, soft and  comfortable.  Seeing that it was 1 in the morning and there were a couple of more hours 'til we would be leaving, I thought this would be a  good investment.  I  was right.

 

Sunday, April 18, 2010

 

We landed in Arequipa at 5 a.m.  There was no time change for us because at this longitude we are on the same schedule as Central daylight time.   We were met by a couple of Peruvian men who laughed a lot and made us laugh, and whisked our bags into the waiting van.  At this point we also met Ben Grass, who looks so much like Travis Whitty that I kept looking at him and finally told him why I was looking at him.  He was thrilled that I thought he looked like someone the same age as one of my kids, but he never did tell me how old he is.  He is one of the Health Bridges International staff.

 

After a 10-minute ride in the van driven by Fr. Alex Busuttil, we arrived at the Alto Cayma Mission guest house high above most of Arequipa, and had a cup of tea with Fr. Alex, Ben Grass and Karen Falkenstein, an HBI staff member with a thousand-watt smile.  We then went to bed for a couple of hours, and after breakfast we walked maybe a half-mile down the dusty hill to a 10 a.m. mass, avoiding the careening city buses and cars sharing the road with us.  At this point Ayse had left us and gone with her hosts,  Jorge and Lilia, to their house in Arequipa.  She is traveling with me but not as part of the Impact Peru team.  I knew she would be just fine on her own.   At the end of the mass Fr. Alex invited me up to the front of the church and handed me his guitar, asking me to sing.  I spoke into the mic to this congregation of dark-haired beautiful people, 'no hablo espanol' and somebody said in English 'you are doing it!'   Then I knew there would be no more excuses, and I began to sing 'De Colores', feeling very grateful for the Cursillo movement which had swept me up 30 years prior so that I could learn this charming little song.  The people sang and clapped along with me.  Afterwards I was greeted with 'muy bueno' and other words which I don't remember, and people kissing me on the cheek  and hugging me.  I have since learned that this is customary here.  In fact, Ben told us that in Peru, generally you greet each person individually in such a way when you enter a room, and also just before you leave.  I like it!

 

We drove downtown to a plaza, the Yannahuara,  where there is an amazing view of much of the city of Arequipa.  Arequipa is set between 3 volcanoes, Chachani, El Misti and Picchu Picchu.  Yes, they are active, but the last time El Misti blew was in the 1500's, so I am not nervous.  There are 1.2 million people in Arequipa living beneath these volcanoes, so I figure, if they're OK with it, so am I.  There is a park in this plaza and beautiful flowers and foliage that we all took pictures of.  A lone fiddler sat on the steps leading up from the park to the atrium and Ben gave me 2 soles to put into his violin case so that I could earn the right to take his photograph.  He was more than willing, and had the most beautiful smile.   We met Ayse at a restaurant called 'Costumbre's' where Ben and Karen ordered us colorful and artfully arranged platters of food which upon being placed on the table were promptly photographed by us shameless tourist types.   My favorite part of this meal was the purple corn tea, a deep purple beverage which looked beautiful through the glass pitchers in which it was brought.  It is a brewed concoction of purple corn of course, and lime and pineapple and sugar, and apparently there are variations which I intend to explore when I arrive back home.  I make a mental note to pick up some purple corn before leaving Peru.  We all eat more than we intend to, and then work it off climbing the steps to the twin towers – "Torre de Sachaca".   A young woman was stirring up a batch of ice cream at the base of the towers in the doorway of her little shop,  the bright yellow color of her shopfront  making a permanent place in my memory.

 

The rest of the afternoon we were left to rest some more, and after a delicious dinner I helped Lauren, one of the volunteers living here, with the dishes.   We had a meeting with Karen and Ben and learned some important things about Arequipa,  life at the Alto Cayma Mission guest house, and HBI, which is a  support group that 'facilitates sustainable improvements in community and individual health through collaboration with established resources'.   I know I'm going to like being here, and none of us have any trouble falling asleep. 

 

Monday April 19, 2010

 

We learn more about HBI.  Fr. Alex told us that HBI helps to eliminate the need for a "band-aid" approach by finding and supporting a group that is already in place, which works to help the community.   www.hbint.org    HBI is supported 100% by private donations.

I brought up my concern about teaching children about sanitation when their surroundings and previous lifestyle don't support being hygienic.  Ben said that you can teach people specific times to wash their hands, such as before and after eating, immediately after using the bathroom, before breastfeeding, before preparing food for yourself or someone else, before handling dishes, etc.   I make a note of it.

 

I learn that Peru has  population of 30 million, and that Arequipa is about 1.2 million.  It is the 2^nd largest city in Peru.  The city centre is low with the altitude climbing the farther out you go.   In the 80's Sentero Luminoso, "Shining Light" caused many problems in the mountainous area of the Huanta province and people flocked to the lower altitude of Arequipa, causing a boom in the population.  Squatting was free and people established whatever homes they could on the free land.   

 

We learned that Fr. Alex was sent here by the Missionary Society of St. Paul (Sociedad de Misionera de San Pablo) 15 years ago.  Originlly from Malta, he arrived with his guitar in hand and began establishing/building the mission's church, guest house and clinic.  The object was to make health care accessible.   A clinic visit costs 3 soles (1 US dollar).  

 

The CFCA (Christian Foundation for Children) offers sponsorship for children and the entire family benefits.  A complete file is kept on each child and his/her sponsor.  

 

We learned that there are 3 groups which commonly come to help with the mission's work here:

 

1)      medical groups

2)      church groups

3)      university groups

 

Most of the groups come from the USA and the purpose is not so much to get productive work out of them, but to open their minds to the lives of other people in the world.

 

"All the trouble that it takes plus faith equals much more than you could expect".    – Fr. Alex Busuttil

 

Today we saw the clinic, the waiting area, the dental room, optometry, ob.  The Peruvian people have a huge heart to care for their own community members.   I think of the way my own fellow countrymen accuse the poor of being lazy, and that is used as a reason not to help them through paying taxes for health insurance and other welfare programs.  I think of how important it is to give because it is the right thing to do.  It is not our business how lazy or not other people are.  I myself am lazy much of the time and I'm glad that God doesn't refuse to help me based on that.

 

We took a tour in the van of the outer part of the community.  Blue, pink, green walls made of the white volcanic ash stone (silla), each brick made by hand and the walls built a bit at a time, as the families have the means to pay for the work and materials.  The majority of homes are only halfway built.  There is a huge celebration whenever anyone finishes their home and puts a roof on.   Dogs roam all over the dusty streets, full of ruts and potholes which our van swerves back and forth to avoid.  The terrain is rocky and uphill and down.  Every so often, on a gate or in front of a wall, beautiful bright geraniums grace the landscape.

 

We have lunch, a siesta, then divide up into groups to 4 different projects: home visits with Maria the social worker, clinic, daycare, and storage closet.  Linda and I go with Karen to sort through boxes of clothes donated from people of Malta.  We categorize them into women's, men's, boys, girls and babies.   Some things have gotten wet and are mildewed and must be thrown away.   Most of the items are beautiful women's clothing.   We label the clothing in boxes so Maria can use them as she sees fit.

 

After dinner I walk down the hill with team members Noreen, Brenna, Mary and Lauren to the evening Mass.  We say "Buenas Noches" to everyone and kiss each one on the cheek, both when arriving and when leaving.  We meet Darrin, a young Peruvian with a guitar, who perfectly imitates our Wisconsin accent when we tell him where we're from.

 

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

 

I was up before dawn, blogging (as I am now) then back to bed.  We had a morning session with Dr. Bob about health in Peru.  Went downtown with Lauren – my first experience on a Combi – to try to get my airline ticket changed and she to try to get her membership to the International Club so she can train for her half-marathon she'll be running in June.  We both meet with bureaucratic idiocy and cannot accomplish our goals, but we do get a lot of walking in.   The Combi drivers are like Parisians, a wild yet courteous aggression that seems to work here.  I am not at all afraid.

 

After lunch and siesta, walk to clinic with Lauren, Mary and Brenna.  We observe a few brave Peruvians underneath dentists' drills with no anesthesia.  Dental care is a huge issue here, many infections which begin at a very young age.

 

We stamp prescription sheets and fold gauze into fingertip turbans for use in putting in stitches, and I give a shot to a little boy, making him cry.  I put a Grover sticker on his little blue sweater but in his mom's arms he continues to cry, long after they leave the exam room.  The next patient, a woman, says she wants Olfa the Peruvian nurse to give her a shot, not me.  It is  long and painful shot, so I massage her hand during it and she does not cry.

 

We walk home in the sunset, taking pictures of the surrounding volcanic mountains, El Misti and Chachani.   After supper we get ready to go "out on the town".   Mary skypes with her husband and sees her little boy Ike, 10 months old, take his first steps.  She is very emotional over it and we all feel it too.  A great accomplishment and she is far away.  Yet she is grateful that she got to see it.  Adan drives us down to the Plaza d'Arman.   We walk over to the fountain just in time to meet Ayse and rescue her from a young man who is trying to hit on her by speaking English.  We push 2 tables together at the outdoor café Inkari Pub/Pizzeria and order Pisco Sours and carrot cake and tres leches.   We meet Alana who is to be a speaker at the upcoming medical conference.  She is from Canada and is very tired, but joins good-naturedly in the camaraderie that we all share.

 

Lauren coincidentally sees the LAN travel agent whom we spoke to earlier in the day, who tells her that LAN is going to refund my airline ticket for the unused portion of it.  This is a miracle of the modern world, an airline refunding money when you change the ticket rather than charging an exorbitant fee.  I make a mental note to write an appreciative note to LAN airlines.

 

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

 

We meet with Ben in the morning.  He shares with us what he calls boring statistics about poverty in the world.  The reality of it is sobering and we all end up in tears.  He shares the story of his Mom with us, of how she worked relentlessly with a woman who had many difficulties.  The woman stood one day in a river with the water breaking around her legs, and said "I can change the river".   It was a picture of how we can affect change, one little thing at a time.  We can change the direction of the water simply by standing and doing something.

 

I realize how shedding tears and feeling sorry may be first steps to affecting change,  but in the end we must simply decide what we are going to do, and then do it.  These people are poor, but with surprisingly little change, they can be lifted up out of their poverty.  They need a little bit of help.  I think about my World Vision children over the past 30 years, and how my monthly contributions may have helped their families out of poverty, but that maybe I can do even more.  I think about how far away I've been from them and not directly affected by their plight.  I am grateful to be here in Peru and just about to visit my little girl Haydee and her family, to understand more about the way they live.  I think about how I could round up more people in my community to take on sponsorships and make this a more commonplace thing, sharing the wealth.

 

Ben shares a benediction with us that goes like this:

 

Because the world is poor and starving, go with bread

Because the world is filled with fear, go with courage

Because the world is in despair, go with hope

Because the world is living lies, go with truth

Because the world is sick with sorrow, go with joy

Because the world is weary of war, go with peace

Because the world is seldom fair, go with justice

Because the world is under judgment, go with mercy

Because the world will die without it, go with love

 

Today is a day of washing clothes and hanging them out to dry, and resting on the bed.  I  break out the Cipro antibiotic due to changes in my gastrointestinal system.  I guess it was just a matter of time.  I gradually give up my big plans to walk to different homes with Maria or to play with children in the Day Care because my body has no energy and no appetite.  Drinking water makes me feel nauseous but I drink it anyway in order to stay hydrated and avoid getting even sicker.  I take Excedrin for Migraine to stave off the headache that is standing nearby, hoping to take over.  My roommate Linda is struggling also, as well as Ruth and Gail, our other teammates.

 

Fr. Alex helps me to finalize my air travel plans with Ayse, over the phone with the travel agent.  I am grateful to have one more leg of the trip planned, and look forward to Machu Picchu and Ayacucho.

 

I eat Veronica's chicken soup for lunch and for dinner.  After dinner I am feeling slightly better and we play Scrabble, Gary, Ruth, Lauren and I, with Gail looking on.   Lauren warns us that she was once a Scrabble champion when she was in 6^th grade.   We are shaking in our boots!

 

I help Lauren finish the supper dishes and then go to bed by way of a hot shower.

 

 

Dorothy Zerbe
To hear "A Long Way To Go" songs, go to: http://cdbaby.com/cd/dorothyzerbe
To hear "Rooted and Free" songs, go to: http://cdbaby.com/cd/dorothyzerbe2
To go to Dorothy's myspace site, go to: http://www.myspace.com/dorothyzerbesongs
 

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